Anonymous asked: Looking to purchase my first pair of turbos. Any recommendation on the sizing? i'd imagine tight right?
Yeah…right on player! I’m a size 35 waist and wear a XL in turbo…it fits me just right. If you plan on bodysurfing a lot, you might want a buy a few. They are only going to last you one summer at best.
You also might want to buy a lot of condoms…because dudes in turbos get laid. Just sayin’
Anonymous asked: Can you recall a day when you got your ass handed to you by mother ocean? Explain?
Not a whole day, but certainly moments. LOTS OF THEM — and it brings me to a bigger point. PUSHING THE ENVELOPE.
If you aren’t failing, you’re not pushing. If you’re not pushing, you’re going to get boring. I’m constantly trying to push — and because of this I eat shit all the time. I currently hold the title of “Best Wipeout of The Year” for the Wedge Crew, and have held it for 3 years straight. That’s not a joke.
Shit, at the PIpe competition I took off way too late and way too deep on a wave and got gobbled up alive. Other than Mike Stewart’s GREAT waves, it was probably the most memorable wave — in a bad way of course. The point is this:
Get the basics down. Once you have that, start experimenting. You’ll fail a million times. But if you’re lucky, your failures might lead you to one ground breaking success — that’s all you need. Zero in on that success and fine tune it.
PS I just finished writing this and remembered a WHOLE day I got my ass handed to me, Rockpiles in 2013. I’ve written about it many times here…although I’ve never shown the video of me getting my ass handed to me. Maybe I will pull it out.
Anonymous asked: Can you make the water hot again? My turbo's getting antsy.
Fingers crossed for El nino this summer. There will be so much turbo action girls won’t come down to the beach because their hoo hahs will hurt from too much of us.
Anonymous asked: Yeah I know hand boards and wetsuits are lame but so am I. 40 years of doing this and I still suck. But I dont care cuz I love it and it makes me happy. I just bought a synergy tri suit hoping the extra buoyancy and silicon might help me get slippy. And I'm looking at Zoggs hand paddles to maybe help with speed and lift. (I dont lie spending $ on a bespoke handboard when a cafeteria tray seems to work fine) Maybe an outboard strapped to my ass. Thoughts?
My initial thought was “Where was your head at when you wrote this?” Maybe I’m dense but I can’t understand what you’re trying to say in half of this. I’ve never said hand boards are lame, and I love wetsuits.
If you’ve been bodysurfing for 40 years and you still suck (your words not mine), I feel confident that a tri suit with extra buoyancy isn’t going to work any magic. Ha.
I’m just giving you a hard time but I seriously don’t know what you want my “thoughts” on. Although I will admit your post was entertaining.